The Pignasecca takes its name from a dried pine grove — pigna secca — where magpies were said to nest until a bishop's curse withered the trees. The market that replaced them has traded since the sixteenth century, which makes it the oldest open-air market in the city. The street food tour naples circuit runs straight through it because that commerce never stopped: fishmongers still shout prices across Via Pignasecca, the lanes are public ground, and entry costs 0 EUR. Three hundred metres east, Spaccanapoli runs dead straight for roughly two kilometres. The name is a nickname; the line itself is the lower decumanus of Greek Neapolis, surveyed in the fifth century BC and never rebuilt off its axis. Seen from the Certosa di San Martino, the cut reads as a single dark seam through the roofs. At ground level it is basalt paving, bassi opening directly onto the street, shrines set into corners, and shopfronts barely two metres wide. The food is documentary. Pizza fritta spread after the war, when wood and flour were rationed and frying needed less of both. The cuoppo — a paper cone of anchovies, courgette flowers, panzarotti and frittatina di pasta — was portion control for people who ate standing up. Sfogliatella riccia came out of a convent kitchen on the Amalfi coast and was commercialised near Via Toledo in 1818. The caffè sospeso, a coffee paid forward for a stranger nobody meets, is still ordered in bars below the Quartieri Spagnoli. Good street food tour naples tours trace that chronology rather than a menu. Naples has never separated its food from its architecture. The same lanes hold the Cappella Sansevero, the majolica cloister of Santa Chiara and a counter selling taralli 'nzogna e pepe by weight. Whether searched as a street food tour naples tour or, in local phrasing, a tour gastronomico di Napoli, the route covers the same few kilometres of basalt — and a Naples food walking tour ends up being a reading of the city's landmarks as much as its fryers.